The Greyhound, Beaconsfield, Buckinghamshire: ‘an Oligarch’s Saloon Bar Teetering On The Edge Of Chintz’ – Restaurant Review | Grace Dent On Restaurants

Beaconsfield successful Buckinghamshire is heroically lovely, but it does person astir it a dense whiff of nan Hot Fuzz. It’s a marketplace municipality pinch a adjacent model village, while nan “best things to do” section connected TripAdvisor highlights nan cemetery aliases a travel to nan erstwhile residence of writer GK Chesterton. If each that fails to thrill, you could conscionable spell for luncheon astatine nan pub – though beryllium alert that the Greyhound isn’t thing arsenic elemental arsenic a plain aged gastropub. Heck no, that would beryllium thing wholly different: much shabbily chic, much carbohydrates connected nan menu, less unit calling you “Madam” while you’re en way to nan loo and not moreover a hint of achromatic peach granita connected your burrata starter.

Rather, this is simply a charming, pale-fronted pub successful a people II 17th-century erstwhile coaching inn that besides boasts a decidedly fancy and swanky edifice that steers good distant from muddy wellies and sticky toffee pudding, and alternatively pitches its shelter successful nan onshore of wood pigeon pinch achromatic beetroot and lavender, Norfolk chickenhearted pressé pinch pickled girolles and sweetcorn, and ajo blanco pinch grapes, cantaloupe melon and nasturtium. And, to beryllium fair, it mightiness good not beryllium for everyone. Gourmands, day treats and typical occasions, perhaps, but picky children and Aunty Pam who conscionable wants toad-in-the-hole mightiness find nan semi-formality a spot testing.

The Greyhound’s La Latteria burrata comes connected a ‘green nasturtium pesto and topped pinch a sweet, peachy granita’.

The Greyhound’s ‘gorgeously crisp-skinned’ oversea bass pinch ‘a silky rotation connected beurre blanc’.

We ordered from nan à la carte, alternatively than nan six-plus course, £110-a-head tasting menu, and began pinch a pleasant vessel of La Latteria burrata successful a greenish nasturtium pesto and topped pinch a sweet, peachy granita. Hereford rump headdress tartare looked for illustration thing retired of a fairytale, and was served very astir chopped and arranged for illustration a bird’s nest astir a miso confit egg, pickled shimeji mushrooms and immoderate capers. A main of roast oversea bass had a gorgeously crisp tegument and came pinch a silky rotation connected beurre blanc and immoderate alternatively al dente braised babe fennel. Another main of wood pigeon erred connected nan broadside of good done and was submerged successful a rich | cherry jus that resembled thing truthful overmuch arsenic a crime scene.

There’s immoderate clever, cogent cooking going connected astatine nan Greyhound, pinch immoderate hits, immoderate misses, but an wide consciousness that, successful a bid to beryllium nan champion edifice for miles around, they mightiness conscionable beryllium missing nan chance to beryllium simply delicious. Still, diners each astir us, celebrating birthdays and anniversaries, were having a beautiful clip of it, and nan edifice was ticking complete very nicely, convey you, particularly for a Tuesday evening.

‘Now we’re talking’: nan Greyhound’s blackcurrant tart topped pinch blackcurrant sorbet.

It was only successful nan dessert database wherever a temper of axenic decadence was allowed to fto rip and flourish, because present we had îles flottantes pinch limoncello custard and raspberry souffle pinch sarsaparilla sorbet. Beforehand, we had foxtrotted neatly and nimbly astir nan world of good dining, but convey God we were now successful nan sugary and comparatively silly ante-room. We opted for nan heavenly sounding blackcurrant tart, which turned retired to beryllium a fat, chunky, individual tart pinch a crisp, buttery casing loaded pinch berries and clotted cream, each infused pinch nan crisp footwear of citrus verbena to break done each nan lactose richness; champion of all, it was topped by a glorious blackcurrant sorbet. Now we were talking.

On nan tasting menu, I noticed that they service Yoredale Wensleydale pinch homebaked fig loaf and chutneys, which sounds arsenic rustic and exquisite. If only nan Greyhound did much fig loaf and little forlock-tugging, I mightiness good beryllium backmost for more.

• The Greyhound 33 Windsor End, Beaconsfield Buckinghamshire, 01494 671315. Open Tues-Sat, luncheon noon-1.30pm (2pm Fri & Sat), meal 6.30-8.30pm (last orders). From astir £70 a caput à la carte; group luncheon £40 for 2 courses, £49 for three; six-course tasting paper £110 (£95 vegetarian aliases vegan), each positive drinks and service

• The adjacent section of Grace’s Comfort Eating podcast is retired connected Tuesday 5 August – perceive to it here.