Simpson’s-in-the-strand, London Wc2: ‘a Rollicking List Of Cosy British Joys’ – Restaurant Review | Grace Dent On Restaurants

As we beryllium awaiting nan beef rib trolley successful nan Grand Divan eating room astatine nan whoppingly sized Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, we fizz pinch ideas of really to picture its wildly unfettered quaintness. “It’s each a spot Hogwarts, isn’t it?” I opportunity to my friend Hugh.

He’s been 4 times already, but then, Simpson’s is that benignant of place: a handy-as-heck, posh canteen a short stroll from Covent Garden. There’s a twinkly, ye olde cocktail barroom upstairs arsenic good arsenic Romano’s pinch its much European-style menu. But, for now, let’s ore connected nan Grand Divan. “It’s each very Samuel Pepys’ London,” Hugh says.

“Or very ‘I’m a personnel of nan British constitution gathering my erstwhile Eton fencing squad for claret and rabbit pinch atom mustard’,” I reply arsenic nan eating hall, which has been utilized successful various forms since 1828 (apparently moreover Dickens popped by astatine 1 point), fills to nan brim beautiful quickly connected this Sunday lunchtime.

Old school: Simpson’s-in-the-Strand’s rabbit terrine is served pinch apricot chutney and toasted brioche.

The soundproofing is world class, meaning that, moreover though nan spot is arsenic bustling arsenic a room successful afloat plaything connected Saturday night, speech is wholly audible. This is simply a Jeremy King restaurant, and specified specifications always matter successful his places. Often, King’s caller openings travel pinch immoderate glorious semi-fictitious backstory to group nan segment – well, it’s a neat instrumentality – but astatine nan Grand Divan he leaves nan paper to do each nan storytelling. It is simply a rollicking database of cosy British joys: bubble and squeak, bacon chop, dressed Portland crab, Gentleman’s Relish connected toast …

Behold, too, nan “pies and puddings of nan day”, wherever Monday’s beef and ale pastry gives measurement to Wednesday’s ox feature pastry and Thursday’s steak and kidney pudding. Yes, nan world whitethorn beryllium burning, but astatine slightest successful this area of Blighty we tin beryllium judge that, of a Friday, location will ever beryllium a Simpson’s food pastry served pinch “vegetables of nan day”. And, for that matter, a sturdy vessel of spotted dick pinch custard for afters. Ah, spotted dick, that stalwart slab of moist, currant-strewn, British mediocrity. I pity those fancy Frenchies crossed nan transmission pinch their flimsy patisserie. Non! Give maine Simpson’s heavy-hitting vessel of sugary suet immoderate day, packed arsenic it is pinch dried consequence that resembles dormant flies, which instantly whisks maine backmost to Sundays successful nan 1970s, erstwhile it came successful a tin and was served pinch on-the-turn Nestlé’ Tip Top; aft Jim Bowen’s Bullseye, it was beautiful overmuch nan champion point each day.

Simpson’s-in-the-Strand’s bubble and squeak: ‘Steeply priced for what is fundamentally a mini information of fried mash topped pinch an egg.’

Simpson’s-in-the-Strand’s spotted dick: ‘Instantly whisks maine backmost to Sundays successful nan 1970s.’

I besides very overmuch enjoyed my roast loin of cod pinch wilted greens and lobster bisque sauce, which was beautiful wonderful: flaky fish, pinch a good, rich | extent to its glossy sauce. At £16.75, bubble and squeak felt steeply priced for what is fundamentally a mini information of fried mash topped pinch an egg, but it was delightful nevertheless.

A mini croquembouche building for 2 featured acold excessively overmuch spun sweetener and not capable pick to elevate it: a small, barren and perfectly British croquembouche that would make a French personification ask: “Qu’est-ce que c’est que ça?”

Even so, there’s thing astir Simpson’s that I really loved: nan oldness, nan properness, nan regalness, nan dependability and, moreover connected a casual Sunday, nan sheer consciousness of occasion. It’s a spot I will thin connected erstwhile I simply request to beryllium fed, nurtured and taken attraction of. As restaurants go, there’s nary higher praise than that.

• Simpson’s-in-the-Strand 100 Strand, London WC2, 020-7836 9112. Open each week, luncheon 11.30am-3pm (5pm Sun), meal 5-11.30pm (10.30pm Sun). From astir £55 a caput à la carte, positive drinks and service