How To Make The Perfect Chicken Massaman – Recipe | Felicity Cloake's How To Make The Perfect …

Bickering pleasantly complete nan paper successful a Thai edifice pinch my family recently, I realised I was incapable to explicate precisely what a gaeng massaman was, beyond nan truth it was astir apt a safe stake for those concerned astir nan 3 chillies adjacent to nan greenish curry (a crockery I first tackled for this file backmost successful 2010). The spread successful my repertoire was explained later erstwhile I opened David Thompson’s pinkish book of Thai Food and learned that “a mussaman curry is nan astir complex, time-consuming Thai curry to make”. The truth nan esteemed Australian cook besides describes it arsenic “the astir delicious” is scant comfortableness fixed I’ve conscionable promised my editor I’ll make astatine slightest six of nan things … but past I retrieve really incredibly tasty it is, and knuckle down to my research.

‘The astir complex, time-consuming Thai curry’: David Thompson’s massaman. All inset photographs by Felicity Cloake.

Though nan first look dates from 1899, massaman, whose sanction suggests an relation pinch nan country’s Muslim minority, astir apt dates backmost to nan 17th century, and reflects either Persian aliases Malaysian influence, aliases possibly that of nan Indian and Middle Eastern herb traders who travelled done confederate Thailand connected their measurement to China. It’s different successful its usage of dried spices for illustration cumin and cinnamon, bay leaves and cloves alongside much classical Thai aromatics for illustration lemongrass and galangal to create a richly savoury gravy that cloaks nan macromolecule and potatoes for illustration a lukewarm hug nonstop from Bangkok. Straightforward capable if you person a Thai master nearby, it’s still much of a play task than a weeknight dinner, but a very worthwhile 1 nonetheless.

The curry paste

The time-consuming portion present is nan paste, which, acknowledgment to nan further barren spices, has a longer constituent database than, say, a reddish aliases greenish curry version. The basal thought is nan same, however, truthful erstwhile you’ve assembled everything you need, there’s not overmuch much to it. That said, “as massaman curry paste is fundamentally reddish curry paste PLUS immoderate spices”, to quote Pailin Chongchitnant, nan cook and writer down Hot Thai Kitchen, you tin prevention yourself immoderate clip by utilizing a ready-made reddish curry paste, as Meera Sodha suggests successful her vegan weeknight version. (According to Chongchitnant, astir commercialized massaman curry pastes skimp connected nan pricier spices, which is why she doesn’t urge them.)

As agelong arsenic you person a instrumentality blender aliases a herb grinder, it’s easy capable to make your ain (and, I’d argue, considerably much satisfying, unless, for illustration me, you’re making respective different versions astatine once). The basal ingredients will beryllium acquainted from different curry pastes: shallots, lemongrass, garlic, galangal, chillies, pepper, coriander guidelines and shrimp paste. To concisely tally done nan little wide disposable ones, Thai shallots, aliases reddish onions, are smaller and much pungent than nan varieties utilized successful European cooking, but if you can’t find them, look for round, alternatively than banana shallots. Galangal is simply a pale, stubby rhizome pinch a peppery, somewhat resinous flavour, which will astir apt beryllium recovered successful nan fridge successful south-east Asian specialists. Ginger is often mentioned arsenic a substitute, but though there’s nary harm successful adding it instead, they don’t sensation overmuch alike to maine – you’re amended disconnected rehydrating dried galangal if that’s each you tin get.

The chillies successful mobility are nan agelong reddish dried assortment that you’ll find easy successful immoderate supermarket world aisle aliases Asian master (do not substitute chilli flakes; I can’t beryllium held responsible for nan consequences). Having done a circuit of London successful hunt of coriander root, I tin show UK readers that unless you get very fortunate pinch a transportation (Khun Ya successful Bermondsey show maine they thin to person theirs, and waste out, connected a Monday morning), you’ll request to bargain it online aliases usage nan stems instead; arsenic Kay Plunkett-Hogge explains successful her book Baan, “it’s not rather nan same, but it will do.” I do negociate to find nan makrut lime called for successful Leela Punyaratabandhu’s family recipe, which is rather nan thrill – it doesn’t look to beryllium a communal addition, but if you travel crossed one, a fewer strips of rind lend a very pleasing zestiness to her dish.

John Chantarasak’s massaman calls for a paste featuring nan summation of cumin and coriander seeds, cloves, peppercorns and mace.

To this basal mixture, nan recipes I try, from Plunkett-Hogge, Anglothai cook and writer John Chantarasak, Punyaratabandhu’s book Bangkok, Sodha and Thompson, each adhd cumin. Like Hogge, Sodha besides uses cinnamon (Thompson goes for cassia), and that’s it for her elemental recipe. Everyone other includes coriander seeds and cloves; peppercorns (Plunkett-Hogge, Punyaratabandhu and Chantarasak); nutmeg (Plunkett-Hogge and Thompson ); mace (Thompson and Chantarasak); and cardamom (Plunkett-Hogge, Thompson and Punyaratabandhu). White cardamom is mentioned by some, which is simply a caller 1 connected me, and proves wellnigh intolerable to way down – “very rare”, says my section Thai shopkeeper, presumably referring to their stocking policy, arsenic I yet negociate to bargain a ample container online. When they arrive, they look much for illustration dried chickpeas than cardamom pods, and person a mildly peppery, somewhat lemony flavour. As almost each of nan recipes concerned propose substituting greenish cardamom, this would beryllium my advice, though if anyone would for illustration an almost-full container of nan achromatic sort, I’m not convinced I’m going to get done it successful this lifetime.

Massaman should beryllium warmly spiced, alternatively than piquant, pinch a peppery power that’s balanced by nan mellow sweetness of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves (I haven’t included mace, because it’s somewhat harder to get clasp of and nary 1 could prime it retired successful nan vanished dishes, but consciousness free to adhd a mates of blades). Everyone but Sodha toasts nan spices earlier use, and everyone isolated from Punyaratabandhu browns nan caller aromatics, too. Though intelligibly not mandatory, this measurement does look to springiness nan vanished dishes a richer, deeper sweetness. To this end, I’m also, for illustration Thompson, going to see crushed peanuts, though you tin time off this retired if catering for allergies, aliases so usage Sodha’s peanut food to make life moreover easier

A note: if grinding nan paste by hand, past soak nan chillies first, but unless you person some spot and patience, I’d powerfully impulse you to usage a herb (/coffee) grinder for nan herb operation if you person one, and an immersion blender to make nan paste – if you only person a mini chopper, which requires liquid to work, past adhd a small of nan coconut pick to grease nan wheels. The paste tin beryllium made good up of clip and refrigerated.

The curry sauce

Once you person nan paste nether your belt, you’ve done nan difficult work. Most recipes past fry it* to usage arsenic a guidelines for nan curry’s gravy, but Chantarasak adds nan fried paste to nan cookware overmuch later successful nan process, an bid that makes much consciousness erstwhile I publication David Thompson’s informing that excessively overmuch coconut beverage “will dilute nan aggravated flavours of nan curry” … which is so what happens erstwhile I adhd his ain paste to nan litre of coconut beverage called for by nan look successful his book. The results are still perfectly delicious, yet regrettably little pungent and aromatic than promised by nan smell of nan fried paste. When I watch him preparing nan aforesaid crockery connected YouTube, however, I observe he follows overmuch nan aforesaid method arsenic Chantarasak, adding a small of nan meat-poaching liquid to nan paste, alternatively than watering down nan paste pinch a full cookware of poaching liquid, which I deliberation is nan cardinal to achieving a really full-flavoured result.

Leela Punyaratabandhu’s massaman calls for nan summation of Seville orangish juice and peel.

Once you’re happy pinch nan consistency of nan gravy, it’s clip to set nan flavour pinch that triumvirate of classical Thai seasonings: thenar sugar, food condiment and tamarind water, though pineapple juice is sometimes utilized alternatively of, aliases alongside nan last, astir notably by Thompson. My judges opportunity this reminds them somewhat of a pina colada, “but not successful a bad way”. Nevertheless, I’ve near it retired – but possibly commencement pinch a dash, alternatively than a afloat cup if you’d for illustration it. Alternatively, you mightiness for illustration nan orangish juice and peel (ideally a bitter Seville orange) successful Punyaratabandhu’s version, which has noble precedent, arsenic it pops up successful nan first recorded look by 19th-century cook and writer Lady Plean Passakornrawong. Again adhd it astatine nan end, truthful arsenic not to spoil its freshness of flavour.

*The paste is either fried successful oil, or, arsenic successful Thompson’s recipe, successful cracked coconut pick – pick that has been fried until nan lipid breaks free. Much room is taken up online by group bemoaning nan stabilisers successful overmuch tinned coconut beverage and cream, which forestall it separating – integrated brands thin to beryllium emulsifier free, but you could usage coconut, aliases rootlike lipid instead.

The curried items

Kay Plunkett-Hogge suggests swapping chickenhearted for goat.

I would opportunity meat, but Sodha’s look utilizing extra-firm tofu is impervious that you really don’t request it present – indeed, 1 of my testers complains that nan slow-braised short ribs successful Chantarasak’s look are distracting him from nan deliciousness of nan sauce. Tofu, a culinary blank canvas, is improbable to person this problem. Massaman is mostly made, however, pinch beef aliases chickenhearted – arsenic it’s a crockery pinch Muslim origins, it’s ne'er made pinch pork. Plunkett-Hogge suggests swapping successful goat, for which I usage diced mutton shoulder, which garners beardown support from my testers; though I’ve stuck pinch chicken, nan sweetness of nan sheep nutrient useful good pinch nan spicing.

Massaman is besides different successful that it tends to see ample chunks of nutrient connected nan bony alternatively than bite-size pieces; Thompson hacks up chickenhearted legs, but it’s astir apt easier, particularly if buying pre-packed meat, to spell pinch nan bone-in thighs Punyaratabandhu recommends, piled precocious successful a smallish pot, truthful they enactment bully and juicy. Thompson heavy fries nan nutrient and vegetables – which “seals and firms nan chickenhearted and vegetables, arsenic good arsenic enriching nan curry” – while Punyaratabandhu shallow fries hers, skin-side down. In a location context, I deliberation conscionable browning nan nutrient earlier braising is sufficient. Like Chantarasak, I’m adding cinnamon and bay leaves to nan coconut beverage poaching liquid to perfume it – if you’re making a beef version, you mightiness besides for illustration to see his prima anise.

Also different successful a Thai discourse are nan potatoes, though cook Bongkoch “Bee” Satongun of nan Michelin-starred Paste Bangkok told National Geographic Traveller magazine that her mother favoured chunks of pineapple, and Chantarasak mentions daikon and saccharine murphy arsenic imaginable alternatives. Don’t skip nan full shallots, though – arsenic pinch Plunkett-Hogge’s raisins and Chantarasak’s aureate sultanas, their sweetness echoes that of nan curry, while roasted peanuts springiness nan crockery a finishing crunch.

Meera Sodha finishes her massaman pinch sauteed chard and caller reddish chilli.

To finish, Sodha tops her curry pinch sauteed chard and caller reddish chilli, which looks attractive, and Chantarasak a drizzle of coconut cream, which is simply a bully thought if you hap to person immoderate leftove but isn’t worthy cracking unfastened a caller tin for, positive a fewer caramelised shallots – again, if you person a cookware open, by each intends sprinkle them complete nan top, but I deliberation it looks perfectly delicious without immoderate garnish whatsoever.

This tin beryllium made up until nan summation of nan potatoes, past reheated arsenic required; indeed, Punyaratabandhu recommends making it a time ahead. Serve pinch steamed Thai atom and thing caller – Plunkett-Hogge’s snappy, zippy pounded cucumber salad proves a celebrated pairing pinch my guests.

Perfect massaman

Serves 4-6
Prep 30 min
Cook 50 min

For nan paste (or usage 6 tbsp reddish curry paste and nan * ingredients)
1½ tsp cumin seeds*
2 tsp coriander seeds*
2 cloves*
4 cardamom pods*
½ nutmeg, grated*
1 cinnamon stick, astir broken
¼ tsp achromatic aliases achromatic peppercorns
6 agelong dried chillies, seeded and astir crushed (soaked successful h2o for 20 minutes if utilizing a pestle and mortar)
4 Thai shallots aliases 2 information shallots, peeled and chopped
5 plump ail cloves, peeled and chopped
2 lemongrass stems, trimmed and purplish conception only chopped (save nan trimmings)
2 tbsp finely chopped galangal
2 tbsp finely chopped coriander guidelines aliases stems
1 tsp Thai shrimp paste (kapi)
25g unsalted roasted peanuts*, astir chopped

For nan curry
8 Thai shallots aliases 4 information ones, peeled and halved aliases quartered
Neutral oil, to fry
6 chickenhearted thighs, bony in
Salt
1 cinnamon stick
3 cardamom pods, lightly crushed
3 bay leaves
800ml coconut milk
4 smallish waxy potatoes, peeled and trim into halves aliases quarters
Salt
180ml coconut cream (brands without emulsifiers activity best)
Palm sugar, to taste
Fish sauce, to taste
Tamarind h2o aliases puree, to taste
30g roasted peanuts

To make nan paste, toast nan barren spices successful a basking wok aliases frying cookware for a mates of minutes until aromatic, past let to cool somewhat earlier grinding to a powder. If utilizing a pestle and mortar for this, a pinch of coarse brackish will make this easier.

Add nan chopped shallots, garlic, lemongrass and galangal (and chillies if soaked) to nan cookware pinch a scatter of h2o and fry, stirring, until opening to colour. Add nan coriander guidelines aliases stems and past usage an immersion blender aliases bedewed herb grinder to puree (if you only person a nutrient processor, adhd a small coconut pick aliases lipid to help). Blend successful nan peanuts and whiz until smooth, past adhd nan shrimp paste and crushed spices and whiz again. Set aside, successful nan fridge if making successful advance.

Coat nan bottommost of a ample frying cookware generously pinch neutral lipid and put connected to a precocious heat. Fry nan shallots until opening to move golden, past group aside. Season nan chickenhearted pinch salt, past fry successful batches until aureate brownish but not cooked through.

Put nan chickenhearted successful a saucepan aliases casserole crockery conscionable ample capable to clasp it comfortably successful respective layers and tuck nan shallots, cinnamon stick, cardamom and nan ends and husks of nan lemongrass successful among it. Scooping retired immoderate pick astatine nan top, move complete conscionable capable coconut beverage to almost but not rather screen it. Bring to a simmer, past move down nan heat, screen and simmer for 30-40 minutes until cooked through.

Meanwhile, navigator nan potatoes successful boiling, lightly salted h2o until conscionable tender past group aside.

Once nan chickenhearted is almost cooked, put nan coconut cream, positive immoderate other from nan milk, successful a frying cookware complete a reasonably precocious heat. Fry until nan fat originates to seep retired of nan sides, past adhd nan curry paste. Cook until it sizzles and originates to darken.

Stir successful conscionable capable of nan coconut beverage from nan chickenhearted to make a mean heavy gravy and past adhd sugar, food condiment and tamarind to taste, starting pinch a tablespoonful of each. Add nan cooked potatoes, chickenhearted and peanuts (you tin make it up ahead to this point) earlier cooking for different 10 minutes. Allow to cool somewhat earlier serving pinch rice.

• Massaman curry: is it so nan astir analyzable of nan Thai curries, and what’s your verdict connected my version? Do you for illustration it heavy and rich, aliases lighter and zestier, pinch nutrient aliases vegetables? And what do you for illustration to service it with?